Now we all know it can be difficult to remove that cat pee odor, especially from chairs and couches… Usually the best approach when dealing with cat pee is to use commercial products, safest for your carpets and the most effective. Sometimes though this can be avoided. Before you buy pet supplies online to deal with the cat pee removal why not try this free recipe I found on the internet.
(SOURCE: http://www.catsofaustralia.com/urinestainremoval.htm )

1. If the cat has recently urinated on the carpet, first absorb as much of the cat urine as possible using paper towels or an old towel. Place clean paper towels over the cat urine area and tread on them so as to absorb as much of the urine as possible. Repeat with dry towels until no more moisture can be absorbed.If the cat urine has dried and you are not sure where the soiled area is you can use a black light (pictured above) to detect it. In a darkened room the black light will pick up urine and other stains. Hand held black lights can be purchased for between $15 to $25
2. Next, wet the area with a solution of 50% white vinegar and 50% water. Make sure you use enough of the solution to penetrate the fibers deep down. Allow it to almost dry. You can assist drying by blotting with paper towels as described above. If you own a wet and dry vacuum extractor use that to remove excess moisture.The acidity of the vinegar will neutralize the ammonia in the cat urine.
3. Apply a liberal amount of baking soda over the affected area and drizzle it with a quarter of a cup of hydrogen peroxide mixed with a teaspoon of liquid dishwashing detergent. (not caustic detergent that you put in a dishwasher) Work it in with a scrubbing brush or your fingers (be sure to wear rubber gloves) to dissolve the baking soda and work it down into the carpet. Allow it to dry. Then vacuum.The vinegar will neutralize the ammonia and hydrogen peroxide is a powerful oxidizer capable of killing bacteria which cause the urine smells. Baking soda is a well known deodorizer which absorbs odors. Sprinkle it on your carpet monthly then vacuum up to keep your carpet smelling fresh all the time.

Important. Never use ammonia or ammonia-based products on the carpet. One of the ingredients of urine is ammonia and your cat may well be encouraged to re-offend in the same area if it detects the smell of ammonia. Many household cleaner cleaners contain ammonia so be sure to read the label.

Nepeta is a genus of about 250 species of flowering plants in the family Lamiaceae. The members of this group are known as catnips or catmints due to its famed liking by cats—nepeta pleasantly stimulates cats’ pheromonic receptor. The genus is native to Europe, Asia, and Africa, with the highest species diversity in the Mediterranean region east to mainland China. It is now common in North America as a weed.

Catnip and catmints are mainly known for the narcotic and hallucinogenic effects they have on cats, particularly domestic cats. Both true catnip and Faassen’s catnip have a sharp, biting taste, while the taste of giant catmint is bland. Approximately two thirds of cats are susceptible to the effects of catnip, as the phenomenon is hereditary. The fact that it only elicits such a response in a proportion of cats—and that it is such a dramatic response—suggests that a genetic element is involved that is enriched in domesticated breeds.

When cats sense the bruised leaves or stems of catnip, they will roll over it, paw at it, chew it, lick it, leap about and purr, often salivating copiously. Some cats will also growl and meow. This reaction only lasts for a few minutes before the cat loses interest. It takes up to two hours for the cat to “reset” and then it can come back to the catnip and have the same response as before. Young kittens and older cats are less likely to have a reaction to catnip. Lions and tigers are also sensitive to the effects of catnip.
Source(s):
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catnip

(from wiki)

Dry food

Dry food (8-10% moisture) is generally made by extrusion cooking under high heat and pressure. Fat may then be sprayed on the food to increase palatability, and other minor ingredients, such as heat-sensitive vitamins, which would be destroyed in the extrusion process, may be added.

Major brand-name dry cat food manufacturers often use primarily grain-based ingredients with animal protein by-products or animal digest to cut cost. Higher end foods offered as ‘premium’, ‘natural’ or ‘holistic’ formulas contain less or no grain, and a higher percentage of animal protein. However, grain-free dry diets still contain carbohydrates, from sources such as potato or tapioca. The starch in those ingredients allows the kibble to hold its shape. Cats have no metabolic need for carbohydrates as the feline system prefers to create glucose from protein.

Dry cat food has an advantage over wet in convenience and price – besides usually being significantly cheaper, dry cat food can also be left out for the cat to eat at will over the course of several days, whereas canned or raw cat food spoils or becomes unappetizing after several hours. It should be noted, however, that even dry food, since it is sprayed with fats as noted above, becomes rancid and stale as it oxidizes. Using a free feeding practice can also contribute to overeating, and ultimately obesity.

Dry food is recommended by some based on the idea that cats break apart dry foods with their teeth, which causes the food to scrape off dental calculus. The degree of benefit this provides has been disputed in recent years.

Since the occurrence of BSE infection through contaminated meat and bone meal, the use of meat meal in pet foods has been prohibited in parts of the world (e.g. Japan and France) but is still common practice in other parts (e.g. USA).[citation needed] Comparative studies conducted by Japanese researchers have shown that meat meal is superior to the other protein meal sources in terms of dry-matter digestibility and nutritional value for cats, while corn gluten meal is the least nutritional.

The same studies showed that cats fed with these dry food diets excreted alkaline urine. Urine pH has been implicated in the formation of struvite crystals in feline urolithiasis, and many dry food manufacturers address this by adding urine-acidifying ingredients to their food. However, this practice may lead to the formation of calcium oxalate stones, therefore water intake rather than urine pH appears to be the most crucial diet related factor for the prevention and treatment of feline stones.

Wet food

Wet (Canned) cat food example (Fish flakes in jelly)

Canned or wet food (75-78% moisture) generally comes in common can sizes of 3 oz (85 g), 5.5 oz (156 g), and 13 oz (369 g). It is also sold in foil pouch form by some manufacturers.

Owners and veterinarians who recommend a diet consisting largely or entirely of canned, homemade or raw cat food point to higher water content of such food and the increased total water consumption in comparison to a dry food diet as an important health benefit. Wet food also generally contains significantly less grain and other carbohydrate material. Many foods are made with fish, however an excessive consumption of fish (which contains high levels of unsaturated fatty acids) can cause yellow fat disease. In comparison to dry food, canned food is thought to either help treat or noticeably reduce the likelihood of numerous health issues including urinary tract disorders, diabetes, chronic renal failure, constipation (sometimes leading to megacolon), and obesity.[citation needed]

Canned cat foods in pop-top containers may play a role in the development of hyperthyroidism in cats. This may be due to bisphenol A used in the pop-top can coating leaching into the food, so it is suggested to place unused food in reusable containers to prevent contamination.

You should buy pet insurance because you want to be *prepared* in case something bad happens. Remember, insurance is the one thing you can’t buy when you need it the most so plan accordingly.

Here are some questions you should ask yourself as you navigate the different plans on the market:

1. Does the pet insurance company give you a choice of deductibles, maximums, and copays to design a plan to suit your budget?

2. Does the plan cover genetic conditions? Make sure their answer is unambiguous because some claim they cover them but there can be “gotchas.”

3. Does the plan cover chronic or recurring conditions? So if your pet gets sick in year 1, does it cover the same illness again in year 2?

4. Does the plan come with coverages that you’ll pay for but probably never use, like “Lost & Found” or “Accidental Death”? These can end up costing you more over the long run than they’re worth.

5. What is and is not covered? Is it clearly stated on their website or over the phone?

6. Does the plan pay claims based on a restrictive benefit schedule or the actual vet bill? You want to avoid benefit schedule plans because they have a high probability of leaving you substantially out of pocket when you make a claim.

7. Are there per-incident or per-body system limits that effectively cap the amount you could receive back? For example, some plans have a $3,000 per-incident limit. If you had a claim for $5,000 with one of these plans then the most you would get back would be $3,000 – ever.

8. How long does the company take to pay claims?

9. What are the rules around pre-existing conditions? Are they excluded permanently or temporarily?

10. Will my premium go up if I make a claim?

11. Will the company increase your co-pay or deductible if you visit a specialist or emergency veterinarian? Some plans do this, make sure you know in advance as not only do emergency & specialists veterinarians cost a lot more but now you’re being asked to foot a larger portion of the bill even though you didn’t sign up for that.

For reviews of the different pet insurance plans in the US check out http://www.PetInsuranceReview.com